River City Chop House is a chip off the old butcher's block. A chance to beef up the winning hand that started when Hy's launched its steak lofts in Calgary and Edmonton 35 years ago.

The men behind the great food adventure on Jasper Avenue in the location formerly occupied by the Lone Star Cafe and Senor Frogs are old hands at the trade.

Sandy Nesbitt (Iron Bridge and Overtime Sports Bar) and Brian Rajotte (the same two venues plus the Post Hotel at Lake Louise) have a trendy idea.

Build a posh dining chamber that flaunts fresh linen, a baby grand piano (jazz and light classical standards only, please) plush blue velvet booths with white leather cushions and midnight blue teardrop lights that go for $900 a pop. Add a leisurely lounge for martini sippers and you have all the enticements of class.

The menu provides ample opportunity to explore a variety of appetizers, salads and meaty entrees that include four different sizes of prime rib, plus chops of veal, lamb and pork.

Voila, you have the very brand of dining out Albertans with deeper pockets love to explore.

One of the prime ribs, the Grand, weighs in at 30 oz and one of the steaks tips the butcher's scales at 18 oz.

Open now for 10 days, River City Chop House comes equipped with enough service to charm the orneriest customer.

Mrs. Meal Ticket and I approve of linen and we certainly enjoyed the herbed goat's cheese pate with rye toasts ($8) that opened our evening. It came with assorted hot peppers.

Salads at River City leave patrons with the choice of ordering half or full portions. My caesar was very nicely done. But the croutons were large and the presence of the same peppers as on the appetizer didn't seem appropriate. Mrs. Meal Ticket's half-Waldorf was tasty with its mix of walnuts, apple slices, mesclun mix and grapes.

We took on a half litre of the house Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) and waited for our entrees; the lamb chops ($30) and the portabella filet tower ($25) which included a giant crust, topped with a 6 oz filet, onions and was capped with a portabella mushroom in pesto sauce.

The missus ordered roast potatoes and I opted for the garlic mashed variety. Both were good.

The meat was juicy and tender and the lamb came with a divinely minty dip. Oh yes, those hot peppers reappeared for the third time at our table. Peppers do not fit such subtle flavours as goat's cheese, salads and delicate meats.

We finished with two fine desserts - a Bernard Callebaut chocolate mousse with lemon zest and a brandy chocolate torte. Quite a finish.

Dinner for two will set you back about $95.

2000-08-02

River City Chop House
111811 Jasper Ave.
4 spoons (Out of 5)